Pollo Porchettato

Chicken cooked like porchetta. 
Anyone who has traveled to Italy has surely seen porchetta, the young pig stuffed with herbs and roasted.  It's very tender and flavorful, and proffered at market stalls over the peninsula, but particularly in the central regions.

I'm not about to get myself a whole hog and try the procedure at home, but an easy way is to use pork roast or chicken breast and pretend it's porchetta!  Simple enough to prepare anytime you don't really feel like cooking, but nice enough to serve to guests, too.

1 whole chicken breast, split
Slices of pancetta or bacon
garlic, minced
rosemary
thyme
sage
salt and pepper
peperoncino flakes, if desired
white wine

Butterfly the chicken breasts.  Drizzle on olive oil, then rub in the herbs.  Close the breasts, and wrap in pancetta.  Secure with toothpicks or tie with kitchen string.  Place in a baking dish; drizzle on a little white wine.  Bake at 400 degrees for about 40 minutes, adding a little wine if needed to keep it from drying out, turning the breasts a couple of times.  Let the wine nearly evaporate for the pancetta to brown.  Slice and serve.
Serves 4 or 5.

Grazie, Artusi

While Italy's celebration of unification was rather lackluster, something the whole nation can get behind is the 100th anniversary of Artusi.  Every household has a copy of the book that brought the country together more surely than politics or paper-signings every could.  The legendary cookbook author served up a collection of recipes that spanned the peninsula, the first of its kind.

I'm an Artusi devotee, so in honor of this anniversary I'm offering one of my favorite Artusi recipes.  Enjoy!

Here it is, in Artusi's words (as translated by Kyle Phillips):

Pollo alla Marengo

On the eve of the battle of Marengo, Napoleon's cook was unable to find the chuck wagons in the confusion and was forced to improvise, using stolen hens.  The dish became known as chicken Marengo, and it's said that Napoleon always enjoyed it, less for itself than because it reminded him of a glorious victory.

Chop a young chicken into pieces.  Saute it with 2 tablespoons of butter and 1 of oil, seasoning it with salt and pepper, and a pinch of nutmeg.  Once the pieces are browned on all sides, drain off the fat, dust the meat with a level tablespoon of flour, and sprinkle it with 1/2 cup of dry white wine.  Sprinkle about 1/2 cup of broth over the chicken to keep it from drying out, cover it, and simmer it until done.  Before serving, sprinkle it with minced parsley and squeeze half a lemon over it.  This is an appetizing dish.

Buy the Artusi from Amazon:


Try this other Artusi recipe from my archives:  Maccheroni alla Napoletana

Agnello Ammollicato

I'm back in Basilicata and enjoying the down-home flavors of the Motherland.  Lamb features heavily in these mountain areas.  It is prepared in a variety of ways and it is so tender and flavorful.  One of my favorites that comes from the central mountain zone is called agnello ammollicato, or lamb with bread crumbs.  It uses the mollica di pane recipe that I've shared with you previously and makes a humble but delicious dish.

Lamb chops or pieces (best with a bit of bone)
mollica di pane
olive oil
1-2 cloves garlic, sliced
oregano
peperoncino (chile flakes)

Rub the lamb pieces with a bit of olive oil and place in a baking dish.  Sprinkle on the mollica di pane, the garlic slices, the oregano and peperoncino flakes, along with a bit of salt and pepper.  Drizzle with olive oil.  Bake at 400 for about an hour, until the lamb is tender and the breadcrumbs are golden.

Pour On The Polenta!

One of the Christmas-time traditions we have came to look forward to is the polentone, or big polenta feast.  Each year on Santo Stefano, the day after Christmas, our friend Giorgio would simmer up some sauce, stir up a pot of polenta, and serve it up on a big board, crowned with plump sausages.  The board pulled double duty as serving tray and dinner plate, as everyone was provided with only a fork and told to go to town on the section in front of them.  He cleverly put the meat and mushrooms in the middle of the polenta, so you had to "fare una strada" (make a road) through the polenta to reach the rich stuff.

It's a fun tradition and a great meal concept that really encourages joviality and interaction.  Giorgio has two enormous wooden boards that he uses for his polentone.  We couldn't find anything suitable for our US version, so we went to a restaurant supply store and purchased two industrial-sized baking sheets for our festa, which worked very well.

This method of serving polenta originates from Abruzzo, where its toppings vary depending on province.  Some places serve it with sausages, other traditions use porcini mushrooms, while some prefer lamb pieces.  It is always generously dusted with roughly-grated aged pecorino cheese.

For the Sauce:

3 cloves garlic, minced

1 onion, minced

2/3 cup dry red wine

1 28-oz. can crushed tomatoes or tomato puree

Fresh sausage (spicy or mild) - enough for the number of guests

1/2 cup mushroom broth (soak dried mushrooms in 1/2 cup of hot water for 1/2 hour; or use a mushroom broth boullion cube), or rich vegetable stock

Saute onion and garlic in olive oil until soft but not brown. Add the wine and allow to partially evaporate, then add the tomatoes and a little salt and pepper. Cut the sausages in half if they are long, poke each with a fork, and drop into the sauce*. Add the mushroom broth, cover and let simmer about 1 hour. Uncover and let simmer another 1/2 hour.

*I put the sausage in for about 10 minutes, then remove all but three or four pieces, so the sauce doesn't become too fatty, while leaving a few pieces in to flavor it nicely. Put the removed sausages into a big saucepan, add a bit of the tomato sauce along with some more red wine, cover and simmer about 1/2 hour. With a big crowd I put them into a baking pan, add some sauce and wine, cover them and put them in a 250` oven to cook, so they're off the stove until I'm ready to serve them.

For the Polenta:

You can prepare traditional, long-cooking polenta for an authentic taste, or the quicker-cooking variety.  Since the "real" polenta involves 45 minutes of constant stirring, I follow Giorgio's method of using the faster version; not the "minute polenta" which he says has no texture to it, but the variety that requires about five minutes of cooking.  An Italian polenta meal works best.  It comes in vacuum-packed bricks and is found in import stores.  For ten people I used 1 1/2 packages of polenta, albeit a few of the guests were light eaters.

Follow the cooking directions on the package, bringing salted water to a boil in a very large pot, then lower the heat and sprinkle the polenta grains in slowly, while stirring with a heavy wooden spoon. 

Pour It On!

When it is thickened but still soft and pourable, turn it out onto the sheets, smoothing it out with a wooden paddle or spoon.  You may have to add a little hot water first to get it to a pourable consistency.

Bring the pot of sauce to the table and ladle it out evenly over the polenta.  Sprinkle generously with grated pecorino cheese.  Top with sausages (or cooked mushrooms, if you prefer).  Dig in and enjoy!

Roasted Sausage and Potatoes

La salsiccia con le patate al forno.

This is a great cool-weather meal where the simple flavors of each ingredient meld to make a delectable dish. 

In Basilicata (or southern Italy in general) it is made with lucanica, a regional sausage that could date back to the ancient Lucanians, or maybe the Greeks who inhabited that area of Magna Grecia.  In Greece there is still a similar product called Loukanika, but it is unclear which came first.  Either way, it is delicious, and it turns out just as good when using vegetarian sausages, too.

1 pound potatoes (I like to use the small red potatoes)

a handful of cipollini onions* (or - even better - half a jar of lampascioni if you can find them)

4 Italian sausages

salt and pepper

1/2 cup white wine

peperoncino flakes or chile oil, optional

olive oil

Clean the potatoes and halve or quarter them, depending on the size.  Put them in a baking dish and sprinkle with salt and pepper.  Cut the baby onions in half and mix them with the potatoes.  If you are able to use lampascioni, drizzle some of the oil from the jar over top, otherwise drizzle with extra virgin olive oil and mix well to coat.  Sprinkle or drizzle on peperoncino or chile oil if you want a spicy dish.  Lay the sausages on top, pour the wine over it all and cover.  Bake at 400 for about 35 minutes.

Obviously, this is a versatile dish and the flavors can be changed based on the type of sausage you use, or the spices you may want to mix in (such as garlic and rosemary).

*Peel the onions quickly and easily by immersing them in boiling water for about 20 seconds.  When cool enough to handle, the skins slide off.

Photo credit goes to cobalt. 

Feelin' Blue Barbecue

It's summer. I know this not because of the heat or beach-side fun. There haven't been much of either this year, and I'm feeling a little blue about it. No, I know it's summer because sweet corn is appearing and blueberries are everywhere. I love the little blue orbs. I eat them plain, with fresh cream (or gelato), and toss a handful in my meusli. I like how they burst in my mouth, and their presence just shouts 'summer' to me.

That, and barbecue season. So why not combine the two? I whipped up this blueberry barbecue sauce to brush on a tender pork loin, but it is just as yummy on chicken or ribs. The sweet-and-tangy combo of berries, sundried tomatoes and maple syrup are sure-fire palate pleasers!

(Speaking of blueberries...did you know that botanists estimate this native American staple has been around for 13,000 years? I didn't! I discovered this fact, and more, at the Blueberry Council's website.)

Feelin' Blue Barbecue

1 small onion, minced
1 clove garlic, minced
2 TBSP olive oil
1 cup fresh (or frozen) blueberries
2/3 cup broth or water
1/3 cup sundried tomatoes, preserved in oil, chopped
1 TBSP tomato paste
1 TBSP dijon mustard
1 TBSP worcestershire sauce
2 TBSP balsamic vinegar
1/4 cup maple syrup
1 tsp. fresh rosemary, minced
1/2 tsp. thyme
salt and pepper to taste
1 tsp. red chile flakes (or dash of cayenne, to taste)

In a saucepan, saute the onion and garlic in olive oil until tender but not browned. Add the remaining ingredients and simmer about 15 minutes, until the berries are soft and the sauce is thickened. Cool about 10 minutes, then put the sauce into a blender jar. Puree until smooth.
Fire up the grill and use to baste the meat of your choice.

Cavatelli con Polpettine

Or, pasta with a meatball sauce. While the American version of spaghetti and meatballs doesn't really exist here in Italy, I did happen to see this down-home dish in a country restaurant in remote Basilicata, which is where my family came from. Cavatelli is one of the preferred regional pastas, along with orecchiette, widely used in that area. They are short little things, sort of like curled- up flower petals, and pick up delicate sauces pretty well. The meatballs are not the giant variety we're so familiar with, but instead little nubs...more like marbles than balls and it really is more like a meat sauce than pasta with meatballs. This is a nice, feel-good dish for the winter doldrums.

Polpettine
about 1/3 pound of ground beef or veal
1 Italian sausage link (spicy is preferred in Basilicata, but whichever variety you like)
about 1 tbsp chopped parsley
salt and pepper to taste
a handful of breadcrumbs
1 small egg

You'll also need...
Extra virgin olive oil
about 1/4 cup chopped onion
a clove of garlic, minced
red wine
meat or vegetable broth
pecorino cheese

Mix everything together, combining well. Use a small amount to form into little marble-sized balls, setting aside until all the meatballs are formed.

In a large heavy-bottomed skillet, heat a couple tablespoons of olive oil. Add the meatballs and brown them. This may have to be done in two batches. When all the meatballs are lightly browned, add a little more oil to the skillet if necessary and saute the onion and garlic, stirring well until softened but not too browned. Add the wine and deglaze the pan, then add the broth, returning all the meatballs to the pan. Partially cover and simmer for about 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, boil the cavatelli until cooked al dente (about 8 minutes). Drain and put in a serving bowl. Pour the meatballs and sauce over top, then gently combine.

Top with freshly grated pecorino cheese.

Here is another version (in Italian), this one from Puglia.

Lamb-Stuffed Artichoke Hearts

This dish is Greek-inspired, though it tastes very Middle Eastern with the spices and lamb. Though it dramatically raised my butcher's eyebrows when I requested the ground lamb, it is very delicious.

About 1/2 pound of ground lamb
2 TBSP minced parsley
salt and pepper
1/4 tsp. each coriander, cumin and cardamon
1 egg, beaten
Combine all together, mixing well. Set aside.

1 small onion, chopped
2 TBSP pine nuts
about 2 TBSP olive oil
Saute the onion until golden, then add the pine nuts. Stir until the nuts begin to color. Cool.
Add this to the meat mixture.

Clean 5 or 6 artichokes, pulling off all the tough outer leaves and cutting about 1/3 off the tops. Slice in half and scoop out the hairy choke. Fill each with the meat mixure, mounding it up. (Alternatively, if you are able to find frozen artichoke bottoms you can use those for a faster and easier dish!) Place in an oven-proof baking dish.

In a small bowl, combine the juice of 1 lemon, 1 tablespoon of olive oil, and about one cup of water. Pour into the bottom of the baking dish, cover and bake at 350 for about 30 minutes, until the artichokes are tender and the meat is cooked through.

A Hearty Casserole

Being rainy and dreary, and generally winter-feeling, we wanted something a bit hearty and warming for dinner, something that heat the oven and the house, as well as fill us up. A casserole always fit the bill for that description! This one is made with potatoes, a bit of ground beef, and mushrooms. This serves 2 people, but is very easy to double.

You'll need: potatoes, ground beef, mushrooms, a couple carrots, an onion, a clove of garlic, some beef broth, a little cream, sour cream or yogurt.

Peel and thinly slice 2-3 potatoes, as well as 1 or 2 carrots.

In a casserole pan, layer 1/3 of the potatoes, and half the carrots. Reserve the rest.
In a skillet, brown about 1/4 to 1/3 pound of ground beef, (or more if you desire it meatier and heartier). Add half the meat to the casserole pan. Add another layer of potatoes and carrots, the remaining beef, and then finish with the rest of the potatoes.

To the skillet, add a bit of olive oil and saute a small onion, chopped and a clove or two of garlic, minced. When they are softened, add the mushrooms (sliced or chopped) and cook until they are soft and reduced. Sprinkle on about a teaspoon of flour and a dash of ground pepper, continuing to saute to get rid of the raw flour taste. Using about 1/2 cup of beef broth...Add a little of the broth slowly, stirring, until it begins to thicken, then continue adding broth until you have a sauce. Swirl in a tablespoon or two of the cream, sour cream or yogurt, stir well to incorporate and remove from heat. Pour all of it over the casserole, cover and bake for about 25 minutes.

Bryan loved this and he usually avoids eating mushrooms!

Spaghetti con Salsiccia

Spaghetti con Salsiccie
Sausage figures widely in Italian cooking. It is grilled, marinated and baked, sautéed and crumbled into sauces. This dish uses it as the base for a pasta sauce. You can vary the spices to make it sweeter-tasting or more piccante, as you prefer.

½ onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 hot Italian sausage link
1 sweet Italian sausage link
4-5 tomatoes, peeled and chopped
a splash of red wine
1 tsp. thyme
a good dash of red chile flakes
salt and black pepper to taste

In a saucepan, sauté the onion and garlic in a bit of olive oil. When they are soft and translucent, add the sausage (removed from the casings) and use a fork to break it up while you brown it. When it is browned, add the tomatoes, wine, and spices. Stir well; cover and simmer about 15 minutes. Serve on spaghetti or any other pasta shape, cooked al dente.

copyright 2006 Valerie Schneider

Chicken Piccata

Chicken Piccata is found on many menus in America. Lemony sauce with capers is the trademark of this simple dish.

Boneless chicken breast cutlets
1 clove garlic
white wine (about 1/4 - 1/3 cup)
lemon juice (2 lemons)
chicken broth (about 1/3 cup)
capers

Lightly dust the cutles in flour, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and saute in hot olive oil. When they are browned on both sides, add the chopped garlic and saute lightly until soft, then splash in a bit of dry white wine. When it's evaporated some, add the lemon juice and chicken broth. Keep on a high simmer until the sauce begins to thicken. Sprinkle on a couple teaspoons of capers and a light dusting of fresh, chopped parsley and serve.

c 2006 Valerie Schneider

Polpettine (Meatballs!)

Homey and comfort food at its best, the aroma of meatballs on the stove brings back feel-good memories. Italians do not serve them atop a bed of spaghetti, as Americans do, however. Pasta is one course, meat is another, so polpettine are served either as an appetizer (when made in bite sized balls) or as a main course. Cooking them in broth keeps them so moist and give them a rich flavor not masked by heavy tomato sauce. I like to pair them with a green vegetable and a bean side dish, such as the beans with radicchio (in the May, 2005 archives).

1 pound ground beef, turkey or combination
1 Italian sausage link
a handful of parsley, chopped
lemon zest of half a lemon
2 handfuls of dry breadcrumbs
1 to 2 eggs
Broth and/or wine

Combine everything except the broth or wine. Mix well and form into balls.

Heat olive oil in a large, heavy skillet. Fry the meatballs til browned on all sides. Add a splash of wine or broth, let it steam and evaporate, then add more to come up about halfway on the meatballs. Cover, reduce heat and simmer until the liquid thickens and the meatballs are cooked through. Serve with a drizzle of the pan juices over top.

c 2006 Valerie Schneider


Combine all

Chicken Pot Roast

With cooler weather, a pot roast has been sounding good. Something that slow-cooks and gives up a hearty, warming aroma and taste is perfect in cooler weather. This is sort of like a classic pot roast but with chicken for a lighter touch.

4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts, cut in half across
4 carrots
4 celery stalks
1 onion
5 potatoes
2 to 3 cloves garlic
1 or 2 bay leaves
1/3 c. dry red wine
1/2 c. chicken broth
half a can of chopped tomatoes

Roughly chop all the veggies into large-chop pieces.

Brown the chicken in a roasting pan in a little olive oil. Add the veggies and stir, sprinkling with salt and pepper. Add bay leaf, then red wine. Let evaporate a minute then add the broth and tomatoes. Bring to a boil, cover and put in oven at 400. Bake until the potatoes are tender, about 30 minutes. Add more broth if necessary to keep from drying out.

I usually make a pan gravy after. Transfer all the meat and veggies to a platter, pour the pan juices into a bowl, then heat a tablespoon of butter in the bottom of the pan. Add a tablespoon of flour and stir well, cooking about a minute. Add the juices (and a little more broth if necessary) back to the pan, stir well to avoid lumps, heat until slightly thickened and pour into a gravy boat.

Enjoy!

Limoncello Lamb

I admit that I have a liking for lamb. Bryan, on the other hand, has an obsession for it. I always tell people that "he never met a lamb he didn't like". If lamb is on a menu, he's sure to order it. My step-father, too, loves it, as is evidenced by the fact that we've had to hear about his Croatian "lamb cooked under a bell" at least ten times. I like it, but I haven't made it too often at home...when I can afford the pricey meat, that is. I recently spurged, though, and bought some beautiful lamb chops. These lemony, tender chops will be sure to please.

Limoncello Lamb
8 lamb chops (or more)
In a pan large enough to hold your chops combine:
1/2 C. limoncello liqueur
1/4 C. extra virgin olive oil
4 juniper berries, crushed
1 clove garlic, crushed
a few good grindings of fresh pepper
1 bay leaf
1 lemon - zest about half of it and then cut it into wedges

Marinade the meat in the mixture for a couple hours.

Grill, laying a lemon wedge atop each chop. This keeps it nice and moist. Depending on thickness it will take about 15 minutes to grill the chops.

Delicious with a side of couscous!

Picnic Chicken

I love a picnic. I must get that from my grandma, whose greatest joys were spent eating outdoors...either on her back porch or at a nearby wooded park that ran along the town's reservoir. And while I like to grill, for most picnics I prefer a more "grab-and-go" approach, taking things that can be easily transported and easily eaten, rather than having to cook once we arrive at our picnic spot. This chicken dish fits the bill...I really like cold chicken for a picnic and any number of accompaniments can complete and compliment the meal. This is a great make-ahead dish, as I usually make it the night before.

4 boneless and skinless chicken breasts, cut into strips

about 2/3 C. dry breadcrumbs
2 TBSP fresh parsley, chopped
1 clove garlic, minced
1/4 to 1/3 cup freshly grated pecorino Romano or Parmigiano cheese
1/4 cup flour
salt and freshly cracked pepper to taste

1 egg, beaten with a tablespoon or so of water
*A nice change of taste can be had by mixing a little bit of freshly grated nutmeg into the egg. It's just enough to add taste and variety without overwhelming the dish

Oven 375
Spray or oil a baking sheet.
Combine all the dry ingredients together. Dip the chicken strips into the egg mixture and then the breadcrumb mixture and place on the baking sheet. Spray or drizzle lightly with olive oil. Bake about 20 minutes, turning once, until cooked through.

Refrigerate until ready to go!

Turkish Stuffed Eggplant

Turkish Stuffed Eggplant (Karniyarik) with Yogurt Sauce
I can't take credit for this recipe; it came from my friends, Mary and Ahmet. Ahmet is from Ankara, and this is one of the many Turkish dishes he likes to prepare. It's quite easy and very delicious. I made this several times last summer when my garden was overflowing with eggplant. Once it's in the oven baking, you can attend to side dishes like a big Greek salad or a cucumber salad as an accompaniment.

3 to 6 eggplants, depending on size
Olive oil
1/2 pound ground beef, lamb or turkey
1 onion, chopped
1/2 green pepper, chopped
16 oz. tomatoes, chopped, juice reserved
salt and pepper to taste
1 TBSP paprika
1/4 C. basmati rice

Oven 400 degrees.

In a large skillet, heat the olive oil; add the onion and green pepper and saute until softened. Add the ground meat and brown., stirring to break it up. Add the chopped tomatoes and rice along with the spices and simmer 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, use a vegetable peeler to peel strips off the eggplants. Slice in half lengthwise and scoop out the flesh, leaving shells. Fill with the meat and rice. Pour reserved tomato juice over and into the pan, adding a little water if necessary to keep it from drying out. Cover and bake for 30 minutes, until eggplants are tender when poked with a fork.

Serve with yogurt sauce.

Yogurt Sauce
1 cup fresh plain yogurt
about 1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley
1 clove garlic, minced
Combine all. Refrigerate.